My Favorite Cheap Eats near The Beehive (Termini)

When I’m too lazy to cook for myself (always) or in a hurry to get from Point A to Point B but am starving (sometimes) and don’t want to spend a lot of money (often), cheap eats are my go-to places to step in for a quick bite that doesn’t break the bank. Rather than cover all of Rome, I’m just mentioning a few places that are within 10-15 minutes walk from The Beehive and in the Termini neighborhood.

Termini Station is located at the confines of the Esquilino neighborhood named after the Esquiline hill, one of the famous seven hills of Rome. Back in ancient Rome, this neighborhood was considered the periphery and wealthier Romans had country homes out here. Fast forward to the late 1800s and King Umberto I (from the Piemonte region in northern Italy) built Rome’s largest piazza here, Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II (Piazza Vittorio for short). The buildings around the piazza, with their beautiful porticos, have an architectural style typical of northern Italian cities. For the past few decades, this neighborhood has been known as Rome’s “ethnic quarter” because of the Bangladeshi, Chinese, African and Middle Eastern immigrants that moved here and set up shops, bars and restaurants.

On the other side of Termini is the Sallustiano neighbourhood. This is an area adjacent to Termini bordered by the Ministry of Finance, the British Embassy and extending almost to Via Veneto. Back in the day, it was the location of the Sallustiani Gardens although the area now has very little green space.

There are a lot of overlooked sights in these neighborhoods, but that’s for another post. For now, I’m going to concentrate on a few places I like to eat on the cheap in the area around Termini station. Although at a few of these places you can sit and eat at a table, these are not restaurants in the classical sense. That’s for another post too!

ESQUILINO

KATHMANDU

Two of my favorite cheap eats happen to be on the same street. You’ll usually smell the fragrant and tempting aromas of Kathmandu’s food before you arrive. Here you’ll find simple, quick and courteous service and delicious no-frills food. Rice, curry, soy noodles, vegetable, and meat dishes with plates starting at €3 and plenty of fried wonderland including pakora and samosas starting at €1.

Kathmandu – via Buonarroti, 38 – Open daily 10:00-23:00

PANIFICIO ROSCIOLI

There are several different Roscioli food places in Rome (including a restaurant, a wine bar, and a coffee/pastry shop), and two of them are bakeries so I can imagine how it might be confusing especially since the font is the same for some of them. Panificio Roscioli near Piazza Vittorio is a bakery and also a tavola calda. A tavola calda is an old school version of Italian “fast food” where a display case is full of pre-made food. If you don’t want some of their yummy pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice), then you can always order a plate of vegetables or a salad or any of the other delicious items they have available daily.

Panificio Roscioli – via Buonarroti, 46/48 – Open daily 07:00-20:00 except on Sunday 07:00-15:00

MERCATO CENTRALE

Restaurants are not open all day so when guests arrive too late for lunch or too early for dinner and ask for a place to eat, I always send them to Mercato Centrale. This food court opened two years ago in Rome’s Termini station and has been a great addition to this often much-maligned part of town. Food court doesn’t sound particularly appealing, but the beautiful interior and excellent food choices make this a food court like no other. You order from the vendor of your choice, pick up your food and then you either pick your beverage from the bar or flag down one of the staff who works the tables who will take your drink order and bring it to you. Although Mercato Centrale is open until midnight most places start closing for food ordering around 23:00.

Mercato Centrale – Via Giovanni Giolitti, 36 – open daily 08:00-midnight

SHAWERMA STATION & NO NAME HALAL FOOD

If you don’t mind something decidedly un-Italian, here’s an inexpensive and tasty alternative. Shawarma, hummus, falafel, couscous and other middle eastern goodies are served cafeteria style in this no-frills, budget place. Falafel sandwiches start at €3. Deal!

Steve and I disagreed here as he is not as much of a fan of Shawarma Station as I am. Instead, he prefers this no-name locale just around the corner. Back when we first moved to Rome and the original Beehive was just a street away, this place was owned by an older Italian woman who made delicious soy crust pizza by the slice using fresh, seasonal produce. She was definitely before her time as she ended up having to close and the place was bought out by the current owner who is Tunisian. He makes his own Berber bread which we order and pick up when we have Moroccan food night at home or at The Beehive. The pièce de résistance here for Steve is their kebab sandwich which he essentially inhales in record time.

Shawarma Station – Via Merulana, 271 – Open daily 10:30-23:30

No name Halal Food – Via San Martino ai Monti, 29 – Open daily

SALLUSTIANO

PINSERE

Pinsa (technically not pizza) is what you will find at this standing room only locale where you’ll find everyone from students, to office and government workers queuing up. Pinsa are a lighter and an older Roman version of pizza – the dough is made with a mixture of flour, soy and rice flour with a longer rising time. Made in not perfectly round single servings and with a variety of interesting toppings, the pinsa is a lighter to the digestion option than the typical pizza by the slice.

Pinsere – Via Flavia, 98 – Open daily 09:00-21:00, closed Saturday & Sunday

FRATELLI GHEZZI

This is a family owned deli (fratelli means brothers) and you will find them or one of their daughters behind the counter. They use and sell high-quality ingredients including specialty items like Cinta Senese ham (an important Tuscan breed of pig) and buffalo mozzarella from the Paestum area south of Naples. They sell dry pasta from some excellent brands and also have a selection of wines and olive oil so these also make great food souvenirs or gifts. You can have sandwiches made to order and they are happy to make suggestions or you can choose from a variety of pre-made pasta, spelt, rice or barley salads – all available for takeaway.

Fratelli Ghezzi – Via Goito, 32 – Open daily 09:00-19:30, closed on Sunday